The Bleak Desert Highway

Journal Entry

Tuesday May 7 2019, Palmyra, Syria

The shelling had been non-stop from sundown to sunrise. Despite global headlines announcing the looming defeat of ISIS, dozens of  soldiers have been killed in swift ISIS raids in the steppes surrounding Palmyra recently.

Luckily we only learnt this after our visit. Continue reading

The hidden lives of Arabs in Cuba

This article was published in the Middle East Eye on August 26, 2019.

By Alex Ray

Amid the brass and percussion that echoes along the Paseo del Prado, Havana’s main drag, another sound can be heard.

That shrill celebratory cry is the zaghrouta, the distinctive ululation Arab women let loose at weddings and other special events. Continue reading